The driving force from an innovation in textiles and clothing using no plastic

Date posted: 30/12/2020


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World Summit of Non-Plastic in 2020 held online on 9-10 / 11. Five vertical discussion conference, with more than 250 expert speakers and more than 50 exhibitors jointly introduced and debated the methods of technical process improvement and material use, as well as The closed economic direction to address plastic pollution and its impact on the environment is increasing rapidly.

Consumers are increasingly aware of the negative environmental effects of fashion and require products that do not contain plastic and have less environmental impact. In response to this request, the fashion and textile industry is finally committed to finding solutions and offering viable alternatives to materials made from non-renewable fossil fuels. .

Progressive-minded textile factories, material researchers and innovators, biotechnology companies and scientists are driving the economic transition towards a new generation of materials and new production process. This article highlighted some of the most promising bio- and non-plastic solutions presented at the conference, including materials in testing and materials ready for market.

Test innovation

Algae-based materials have gained a lot of attention in recent years with startups like Algiknit, Algalife and Bloom - which are developing new materials for apparel, accessories and shoes. sandals.

New York-based designer and researcher Charlotte McCurdy's research is highly experimental, and her work combines design and science to address existing threats like climate change. In an interview with Amanda Johnson - consultant for the UK-based non-profit organization The Sustainable Angle, McCurdy introduced the idea of ​​a non-carbon raincoat, which has just been displayed at the exhibition The Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial in New York. The prototype material is made from carbon sequestered seaweed and the designer wants to prove that she is trying to make 100% single material, unlike other bioplastics that require mixing with the objects. Other materials, usually synthetic materials. The material for this raincoat is finished with a thin plant-based wax coating for waterproofing and all the trims are made from vegetable cellulose.      

Equally innovative is the jellyfish skin from Dutch designer Charlotte van Alem, inspired by jellyfish dead in the Baltic Sea as a result of disease, uncontrolled fishing, umbrellas infection is increasing and the sea water warms. This unique material is created using ancient techniques to preserve stencils including washing, salting, tanning, layering and pressing or stitching pieces of jellyfish skin together into large pieces. than.

The Dutch design group UNSEAM specializes in the development of new technologies for domestic textile and apparel production, digitally and on-demand manufacturing to meet the demands of an economic transition to mass production. As part of a research project 'Producing 3-D garments with new eco-origin materials', co-founder Bas Froon leveraged jellyfish skin to experiment with seamless holographic fabrication circuit and found that this material proved efficient in 3D casting and bonding while retaining its toughness and flexibility properties.

Technology for manufacturing biological materials

Laboratory grown and engineered material plants, such as Bolt Treads' protein-based Microsilk fiber and Modern Meadow's ZOA fiber made from collagen and protein are some of the next generation bio-engineered materials for sees exciting potential for future fashion products. There are many improvements going on in the laboratories and one of the most important challenges is the upgrading of these innovative materials.

Like Oliver Syed from Japanese biotechnology company Spiber Inc. explained, the first generation of spider silk material was difficult to upgrade and produce on an industrial scale. Therefore, the company developed Brewed Protein - a material produced through microbial fermentation in large tanks that uses sugar and minerals to produce protein, which is then dried to a powder. This powder is processed into fibers, films and plastics; This technology can be used to produce a wide variety of yarns and textiles with special properties such as lustrous and soft like cashmere or with the ability to absorb moisture and regulate heat like wool.

The company believes that Brewed Protein fibers have significant potential to replace materials that are harmful to the environment and is currently studying the material's life cycle and environmental impact. Initial analysis indicates that this material is renewable, biodegradable and it can reduce carbon emissions during manufacturing, while also providing an opportunity to study functions other than the genus. competitive fees.

 ‘The Sweater’ launched in partnership with the Japanese ski brand Goldwin as the third commercial product to utilize this technology. The product is made from a new blend of Brewed Protein wool. This sweater is limited in production, you can only buy it by participating in the online lottery to win a chance to buy it for 800 USD.

Mark Herrema - CEO at Newlight Technologies, Inc., a Southern California-based biotechnology company, demonstrated the company's vision and journey around developing innovative materials. environmental friendly. After ten years of research, the company developed the AirCarbon material, a bio-material described as renewable, carbon-free, ocean degradable and highly durable, with The ultimate goal is to tackle the problem of plastic pollution and climate change. The manufacturing process uses microorganisms naturally found in the ocean to convert the air and carbon from greenhouse gas emissions into materials, using renewable energy and seawater. AirCarbon can be melted and molded into fibers or sheets, to replace plastics, synthetic fibers and animal skins.

Recycled & recycled materials

Innovations for recycled and recyclable non-plastic textiles have increased rapidly as both established and established companies focus on this area. Raw materials usually come from food industry by-products and agricultural waste such as expired milk, orange peel, apple, grapes or pineapple leaves, while the conversion of textile waste into valuable raw materials has been made possible through new recycling and recycling technologies and processes.

Dr. Luke Halverhals, Founder and CEO at biotech startup Natural Fiber Welding made a presentation

His company's idea to create bio-skin with little impact on the environment. Halverhals has frankly criticized the use of non-renewable composites in the fashion industry and rejected the idea that the industry could recycle itself after the plastic crisis. The company's motto is “Plants, not plastics” and this approach inspired the development of Mirum leather. This material is made from agricultural waste that uses their proprietary welding technology to mold and adhere materials such as mixing with coir to produce cork. The material is both fully biodegradable and recyclable, and the company can reclaim used and end-of-life products to make Mirum.

Patrik Lundström - CEO of Swedish textile recycling company Renewcell presented a company's innovative material called Circulose with the aim of providing a more sustainable alternative to the most popular materials. in the fashion industry are polyester and cotton. Unlike other recycled fibers that are made from wood, Circulose pulp uses 100% of textile waste, such as old jeans and cutting waste. Textile waste is mechanically shredded before the fibers are dissolved, dehydrated, dried and formed into sheets. Circulose can be used to produce biodegradable viscose or lyocell textiles with the same quality as starting material, mixed with other fibers or as a monolithic material. The company has now remanufactured textiles with 98% cotton, because they can separate 2% of other materials, eg elastane. This process will be optimized to 90% cotton and 10% blends in their new plant.

Lotta Kopra - Sales Manager from Finnish fiber producer Spinnova also presented the company's unique cellulose production process that is distinct from other types of man-made cellulose and is therefore described by Spinnova as' material most sustainable 'in the world. Timber from FSC or PEFC certified growers and waste materials, such as fabric and potato peels, are pulverized and more mechanically processed instead of chemically. This process uses no harmful chemicals and uses very low water as there is no need for rinsing or rinsing. The company is immensely proud of their groundbreaking technology, which is inspired by the way spiders weave the web and arrange cellulosic fibers to create a highly elastic yarn that supplies textiles with 100% recyclable and 'ready for a complete product cycle'.

Spinnova is partnering with Norwegian outdoor fashion brand Bergans on the innovative line ‘Collection of Tomorrow’ to pioneer the future of recirculating commercial consumer products and services. The collection includes two products: backpacks and woven shirts and both are made with Spinnova's 100% recyclable cellulose although fabric composition and softness have been improved. to match the dress. The idea behind the collection is that consumers understand the value of the materials that make the product and therefore return it when the product is worn out or they don't want to use it anymore, so they can be recycled into new materials and products.

Người dịch: Phạm Kim Anh



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